Beeth Festival, Hurlaa
One stormy afternoon in April 2024, Jonty, Jyoti, Nandi, Robbie and I head out to the village of Hurlaa to participate in the Beeth festival. On arrival, the clouds disperse, and we are invited for tea at Ramesh Mahant’s lovely home. Ramesh’s younger sister was very dear to all of us, and it was she who introduced us to this beautiful place. Sitting on the veranda with a cup of tea, we begin to get immersed in the energy of this festival that celebrates the local jogni (or nature goddess) Fungani Mata.
Located south east of Kullu, Hurlaa is home to the god Baba Veer Nath. During the renovation of the god’s beautiful temple in 1971-72, his gur (oracle) went into a trance. Through the gur, Baba Veer Nath exhorted the villagers to begin an annual festival known as Beeth.
The festival begins with young men and pujaris going up a nearby mountain. There they first perform a puja to the jogni Fungani Mata. After receiving her permission, they then use rhododendron trees to create the form of the Beeth. First, they weave a ring about 10” in diameter and 2" thick. It must be strong, to give the jogni a proper place to rest. Then a basket is created, flowers are woven in and upwards from there to a collar made of the tree bark. The whole creation is tied together with red string. Flowers continue to be added and shaped skywards. Once completed, the jogni temporarily resides in the entire structure.
The Beeth is brought down the mountain to just outside the village. She is met first by Markandey Rishi — the most powerful devta in the area. He greets the Beeth and the welcoming puja commences. Then both Veer Naths (Benni and Hurlaa) gather up the courage to approach this powerful jogni and welcome her. Together the gods and the Beeth process to the village square and temple grounds.
A confluence of sight and sound, where each beat is not merely heard but felt deep within.
The joy is a wonderful experience to behold.
Singing and dancing in the village square continues. The three devtas and villagers join together (as they do on this day each year) to salute the subtle and powerful energy of the jogni Fungani. After some time and approximately five rounds of the ground, something interesting begins. The Beeth is taken from the head of her carrier and is moved around with great excitement.
As the drumming and excitement reach their climax, the young men of the village begin to tear the Beeth apart. The flowers are thrown everywhere as blessings to all the onlookers. The young men vie for the Beeth’s round central structure — it is very auspicious if you manage to hold on to it! Finally, the woven centre is offered back to the jogni at the small temple made in her honour.
Thanks to Ramesh Mahant, Ganesh Mahant, Pujari Shyam, Kardhar Dhyaan Chand, their families and all those in the wonderful village of Hurlaa who welcomed us with open hearts.
Special thanks go to Raju and Dishaa Sharma, Somesh and Abbha. It was Raju’s mother who introduced us to this beautiful tradition in the most serene village of Hurlaa.