Ganakhra Home of Bijli Mahadev
It is a sunny day in November 2022. Jonty, Aporva and I set out for a village high up off the beaten track. Ganakhra is the home to Bijli Mahadev, one of the most powerful Devtas in the Valley. The drive to Chhaman is very scenic. We find the path to climb the next 1000’ up to Ganakhra. The walk up is a defined path, rocky, a bit troubling for my back, but nevertheless compelling.
As we approach the village, we can see that work is continuing on the new Bandar. It looks massive as we approach from below. The village is very small, probably 5 or 6 houses as it is on the border of the jungle (we would call it the forest). Meeting some villagers on the path, we are informed that ladies would not be allowed near the construction, but they may allow Jonty. We have carried books with us in the hope of meeting with the Pujari.
Reaching a fairly modern house, we inquire if Madan Pujari is somewhere in the small village. We had not realized that we were asking his wife Sujata. She very kindly summoned him and invited us up on their balcony. I recognized Madan ji as I have seen him at the Bijli Mahadev Mandir and at assorted other events at Pirdi and Katyali. Due to the construction of the bandar, he has now grown a beard. It is customary for those associated with the Devta and involved in the construction not to shave until the work is complete.
We presented Madan with my 2 books..."Flowers of Faith", as well as "Seer and the Scene". Seeing the books, he touched his heart at every image of Bijli Mahadev. The sense of devotion was absolutely genuine. As he flipped through the pages, he asked how much did the books cost. Of course they were an offering. (He mentioned that he had seen me at Katyali and asked where his photo was. I will look through the archives and send him photos of himself form 10 years ago.)
The old pujari was Madan’s grandfather. Asking about his father, Madan told us that his father stayed in the village mostly while Madan went to the temple. In a few minutes his father appeared and looking at “Flowers of Faith” he said yes he had seen it. (In 2012 We had distributed about 150 books to the devtas in Dusshera)
They served us a sweet cup of chai which truly hit the spot after the long climb, asked us if we wanted food, Dahl and rice, but we politely declined thinking it would take too long.
So paranthas were made, and served with delicious apricot and pear pickle. We had not wanted them to cook us a meal, but Sujata got busy in the kitchen. We chatted while enjoying our meal.
The artisan who had carved the door was there, a kind man. Then there were various others working, sanding, polishing the wood etc. Madan introduced us to Negi (I believe his uncle) who was in charge of organizing all of the construction. He also introduced us to various other members of the har. The drummer (he beats the daans which is the drum that invokes the Devta), one of the cooks, bajantri, bandari, etc. All were very welcoming, and I think a little fascinated that we made to journey to see the construction.
It was getting late and so we said our farewells and went back down the mountain. They sent us off with 5 kg of apples from their orchard. A wonderful day up high in the Himalaya
